The ultimate guide to otter photography fieldcraft (including great gear recommendations).
Updated: 2 days ago
There is probably a lot more to successful, ethical otter photography than most people realise, and I will be honest, there is a lot more I could be including, but I can't give everything away in one article. So here is my concise guide to doing it right, including advice on finding otters, fieldcraft, and the best equipment I have tried and tested over the years. Ultimately, the longer you can stay hidden, the more photographic opportunities you will get and the less impact your presence will have on the animals. So, better ethics equals better images!
1/ Wind direction.
Whilst this is undoubtedly the most important consideration, it is probably the one that is most overlooked. A photographer hoping to shoot otters should only be visiting locations with an in-shore wind on the day. That is, the wind should be blowing in from the sea. As you will be photographing the animals as they fish, this means your smell isn’t being blown onto the animals. If you don’t adhere to this, then they will smell you and will be forced to move away. If you keep trying to follow them despite being upwind, this will impact their behaviour and likely their calorie intake for the day.
If you cant get your head arround what wind direction will or wont work in a particular area I recommend using a good weather app like Windfinder. These show the wind speed and direction overlayed on a map, so, no excuses!
2/ Hide your profile.
Otters have limited eyesight for details but can detect changes on the horizon, even from afar. Stay low and avoid silhouetting yourself against the horizon. Instead of sitting on a rock, sit beside it. A frequent error is climbing to a high spot for a "better view," which actually provides any otter below with a clearer view of you, significantly increasing the likelihood of startling them. Instead, stay back from the edge, look far ahead, and be patient.
3/ Avoid strong smells.
An otter's sense of smell is remarkable. Even if the wind is favorable, a strong scent from perfume, laundry detergent, or your own distinct odor can easily be detected by otters. I recall an instance during an otter photography day that highlighted this point. I picked up a couple from a hotel in Shetland early one morning. They were dressed in full camouflage gear and had invested in some very expensive equipment. As they approached the car, I could almost taste the brand of perfume one of them was wearing. By then, it was too late to address it, I couldn't exactly ask them to change and shower. The day unfolded as expected; despite using the right wind direction for cover, every otter we encountered didn't linger for long. Eventually, I stopped trying to get them close and we had to settle for distant views, which was not what they had hoped for.
4/ Read their behaviour.
Are they looking at you, are they constantly moving away from you? Then something could be wrong, and you need to re-evaluate your approach. On occasion, however, an otter may well look your way. It may have noticed something or could just be checking the shore for danger. When otters look towards you, it is best to keep still, even keep the lens down rather than raise it for a shot. One missed opportunity may well pay dividends in future opportunities for holding back that little bit and staying unnoticed.
5/ Site knowledge.
Knowing the location you are visiting, and the behavioural characteristics of the animals within, is invaluable for safe, ethical photography. If, for example, you know where holts, spraint sites, and lay-ups are, you can judge where to position yourself to not only get the best shooting position but also to prevent yourself from blocking and otters’ path. Should you inadvertently do this and an otter comes too close, it may spook the animal and throw off the rest of your shoot.
6/ Book a GOOD guide.
Naturally, I must mention this. Building on the previous point, having a knowledgeable guide who is familiar with their area is the best way to maximise your experience. How can you tell if you're booking a competent guide? Are they organising the day based on wind direction and otter activity, or merely for their own convenience? If you're unsure, ask them some key questions about their plans with you and you will soon know.
7/ Keep locations quiet.
This is especially important when it comes to social media. Pressure from too many well-intended enthusiasts can, all too often, alter an animal's normal pattern. So don't post where you have seen them, and only share that information with people you trust, i.e., nobody!
8/ Keeping quiet.
An otter’s hearing is excellent, significantly better than ours. Not too long ago, a camera’s shutter noise would be the most likely reason an otter has heard you. Now with mirrorless systems, this need not be the case, provided, of course, your body is set to silent, which it should always be if you are photographing otters. If you don’t have the luxury of a silent system, then you must be mindful of the shutter rate and only shoot one frame at a time, pausing if the animal looks your way.
9/ Checking ahead.
By this, I mean with binoculars. Before you even consider walking a stretch of shoreline, you should be scanning well ahead with your binos. Pay particular attention to key areas like rocky promontories, areas where fresh water feeds into the sea, and where fence lines run down to the shore. Spotting the animals well ahead gives you time to plan an approach where you can remain hidden and ultimately spend more time with your subject.
10/ Appropriate clothing.
You don’t need to be clad head to toe in camo; dark colours will do just fine. Bright colours and white, however, do contrast strongly with the environment and should be avoided. I am often asked for clothing recommendations, so in the next section, I am going to give you the lowdown on the gear I like to use personally. If you are on a day trip and don't otherwise do much outdoor activity, then cheap wellies and a green mac will suffice. If you love the outdoors and want to spend more time with wildlife whilst keeping warm and dry, read on!
My personal gear recommendations.
The best jacket for otter tracking!
Almost as important as the gear you are shooting with is the clothing and footwear you choose. I have tried and tested the best of it over the last 10 years, and here are some of my recommendations for those that work in the field to keep you warm, dry, and most importantly, silent.
Boots
For a long time, I have used the Aigle Parcours wellies. Walking the banks in Shetland, it is almost always wet underfoot, and honestly, most so-called waterproof boots don’t cut it. The Parcorus are neoprene-lined, warm, and flexible. I usually get two years out of a pair. Only two years, I hear you say! Being out almost daily over rough terrain plus the odd dip in salt water really takes its toll. I have worn out some very high end boots like Meindl in a matter of months, so I consider the two year mark very good indeed. A new, standout addition to my gear has been the Bestard Explorer AG. These high-top boots offer wellie-level warmth and waterproof performance, paired with exceptional durability, the rand shows no sign of separating from the leather (a common problem I've had with other boots). While the upfront investment is high, the cost per year is significantly lower compared to replacing cheaper options.
Trousers
Harkila makes a great, tough pair of trousers in their Pro-Endure range. They are water-resistant rather than waterproof but are very hard-wearing and, most importantly for trousers, silent. I can’t get Fjällräven trousers to last more than a couple of months; with admittedly heavy use, I find the fabric tears easily if it catches on rocks.
Jacket
Believe me, I have tried the best of them: Harkila, Rab, Fjällräven, Swandri etc. The Harkila Pro-Endure jacket (akin to the trousers) is a great option, but it is heavy and, as with the trousers, only water-resistant. In terms of good waterproofing and value for money, it is hard to beat the Ridgeline, Monsoon smock. It is lightweight, has taped seams, and the fabric is very quiet. The only drawback is that it isn’t breathable, but the trade-off is worth it. One of my favourite features on this jacket is the long back panel, which helps cover your backside when sitting on wet ground.
Gloves
My go-to gloves are a fingerless merino and possum fur blend from Noble Wilde, incredibly warm for such a lightweight glove. For photography, you really do need the fingerless option. I also have some Sealskinz gloves, designed for shooting, where the forefinger and thumb can be peeled back and held in place by built-in magnets. But even these get in the way of camera operation on occasion.
The key takeaways on gear are that clothing should be robust, waterproof, silent, and in muted colours like green, brown, and grey. Camouflage really isn’t necessary; in fact, I’d say a lot of the hunting style camo clothing available will actually stick out like a sore thumb against the dark rocks of most shorelines, so best to avoid it.
Happy shooting!
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